Activity Week 2009: Kuari Pass

This year for Activity Week, I tagged along on a week-long Himalayan trek with 11th and 12th graders through the Garhwal region of Uttarakhand State (the state that Mussoorie is in). There were 15 of us in total (11 students, 4 adults) and we represented a variety of countries and cultures: India, Nepal, France, South Korea, US, Tibet, Saudia Arabia, and Japan. Our route was Kuari Pass, a route that follows an ancient trade route between Tibet and the Indian planes. No one on the trip had done the route before, so it came as a surprise when the it was not just a single ascent to the pass but rather many ascents and descents as we crossed two major river valleys. I've tried to include the approximate altitudes for each campsite.

Day 1: Drive from Mussoorie to Chefna
We left Woodstock at around 6:30am for the 12 hour drive to Chefna (via Chamba, Tehri, Srinagar, Rudraprayag, Karnaprayag, and Nandaprayag). Highlights included seeing the Tehri Dam, which has changed a river valley into an enormous lake. It is beautiful, but quite controversial. We ate at dhabas (greasy but delicious road-side restaurants) and arrived at our campsite on the Nandakini River after dark. With no celebration of Halloween, I was feeling un-american and decided to carve an orange. Little did I know that my citrus jack-o-lantern would provide over an hour of entertainment for the group!

Day 2: Chefna (3000ft) to Ghuni (7000ft) 8km
Woke up to warm weather and promises of an easy "practice" day of hiking. Well, not so much. The trail, much to our dismay, continued uphill all day from the Nandakini river valley. Every time we thought we sighted the top, our guide would say "there is no top today." We passed through a few villages with local kids asking to take their photos. Just before dark we reached our campsite above Ghuni village.

Our long and hot ascent to Ghuni Village.

Village kids near Ghuni.

Looking over the valley we just climbed.

Villagers near Ghuni.

Tentmates!

Day 3: Ghuni (7000ft) to Jhinj (7000ft)i via Chechni Binayak (10000ft) 11km
As if we hadn't had enough the day before, we continued to climb uphill all morning through a large village and to (finally!!!) the top of the hill. The pass, Chechni Binayak (10,000ft), was beautiful with views of Nanda Ghunti (20,819ft). After lunch, a steep descent through a dark forest to Jhinji. Hail, rain, maple leaves (!!!!!), rocky paths, and crisp air reminded me of autumn in northern MN. With the hail storm, we fell behind schedule and hiked the last hour to our campsite at Jhinji in the dark.

The ascent to Chechni Banayak Pass.

Taking a break at Chechni Banayak Pass.

Hail storm and maple leaves!

Nanda Ghunti amidst storm clouds.

Day 4: Jhinji (7000ft) to Pana (8800ft) 8km via Birahi Ganga Bridge (6000ft)
The morning started with a sharp descent to Birahi Ganga Valley. We crossed the Birahi Ganga River via a bridge that was hanging hundreds of feet above the river. After the bridge, we started the long ascent to our campsite above Pana Village. Gorgeous views of Trisul (23,395ft) and Nanda Ghunti (20,819).

Bridge at Birahi Ganga River.

A rare flat path with maples and birches!

Apparently cows use the same water source we do at Pana village.

The view from Pana Village campsite.

Kids from Pana Village investigating our camping techniques.

Day 5: Pana (8800ft) to Dhakwani (13000ft) via Doma Bhiti Waterfall 16km
A steep uphill climb to start the morning. The pass at the top was about level with Chechni Binayak Pass from two days previously. After the climb, we descended to Sartoli and then steeply down to a gorgeous waterfall (Doma Bhiti?) with a washed out bridge. Then another long ascent to Dhakwani, just below Kuari Pass!

The cobblestone trail with Kuari Pass in the background.

Enjoying the waterfall.

The last hikers climb up to Dhakwani campsite. Our trek started from the opposite side of one of the far hills!

Day 6: Dhakwani (13000ft) to Talli (Chitrakanta) (12000ft) via Kuari Pass (14000ft) 12km
A tough hour climb to reach Kuari Pass. Despite the cold temps and thin air, we spent lots of time to take photos of the panorama of Himalayan peaks. Then a gradual incline (with more fantastic views) before starting to descend back down to the treeline. A final ascent out of the forest to our campsite above the treeline, from which Nanda Devi (25,643ft) could be seen clearly, as well as Trisul (23,359ft), Dunagiri (23,182ft), Changabang (22,520ft), and many others. Our guides (but not us) sighted two black bears eating a cow carcass about 100m downhill from our camp.

The whole group at the Pass.

Enjoying the gentle descent towards the treeline.

Nanda Devi!!!!

Day 7: Talli (12000ft) to Auli (10000ft) via Gorson 8km
Another steep climb to start the morning in order to pass over Chitrakanta. Then a meandering descent to Auli with beautiful views. We met our jeeps by Cliff Top Hotel just above Auli and drove to a "bungalow" run by HImalayan Shepherds in Auli to stay for the night.

Our Talli campsite with the panorama of peaks in the background.

The last tough climb of the trip.

A mule and its guide pushing to the top of the final ascent.

The beautiful descent to Auli.

Day 8: Drive from Auli to Mussoorie
Early departure from Auli to tackle the 14 hour drive back to Woodstock. Delays included a cross-country race for soldiers in Auli and the largest herd of sheep I've ever seen!